PRAIA D'EL REY
A birdie to begin… we started on the back nine so this is the 10th green.
Portugal’s Atlantic Gem
Praia D'El Rey is a fun course! If it’s windy, as I’m sure it often is, it shows its teeth. But apart from a bit of rain on the back nine that slightly dampened our spirits, we found it relatively benign.
If you want more of a test, take it on from the back tees. Overall, it’s a great combination of sun, sand, sea and the occasional squall. The Atlantic Ocean is always in view on the coastal stretches and there are thick groves of pine trees, particularly on the front nine, to add to the variety.
I’ve got to say, there are a couple of weaker, ‘filler’ holes and two very short Par 5s worth going for, but generally, it’s a good experience. The back nine is the stronger, with a great finishing 17th and 18th that bring the ocean back into play and make for a dramatic close.
Course Character & Design
Designed by American architect Cabell B. Robinson, Praia D’El Rey opened in 1997 and quickly established itself as one of Portugal’s premier coastal courses. It’s a clever blend of seaside links and inland parkland, with the opening holes weaving through pines before bursting out onto the open dunes. The contrast between the two nines keeps things interesting – the front tight and sheltered, the back wild and windblown.
“At 6,400 yards off the back tees, it’s not the longest, but it doesn’t need to be.”
This course rewards brains over brawn. Positioning is everything – stray offline and you’ll find yourself in thick marram grass or knee-deep in sand. The bunkering is bold and well-placed, the greens subtle but true, and when the breeze picks up off the Atlantic, club selection becomes a guessing game in the best possible way.
SPRING BREAK
Praia D'El Rey has aged gracefully. It may lack the glossy newness of some modern resort courses, but that’s part of its charm. There’s a slightly old-school feel to it – a classic layout, honest design, and a welcome sense that it’s there for golfers, not just Instagram. The fairways are firm, the greens consistent, and the conditioning throughout the year is excellent.
The resort buzzes in March and April, when the combination of school holidays and ideal spring weather fills both the tee sheet and the hotel. If you’re planning a trip, book early – the Praia D'El Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort, which is our recommended accommodation and its villas get snapped up fast. Expect a slower pace of play during those busy months, but it’s all part of the easy-going holiday rhythm. Outside peak season, you’ll find space to breathe and plenty of opportunities to replay the holes that caught you out the first time.
The Resort & Surroundings
The on-site Marriott Hotel is first-class and perfectly positioned, with sweeping ocean views and easy access to the first tee. There’s a great mix of accommodation – everything from hotel rooms to self-catering villas for families or golf groups. The resort’s restaurants serve excellent local seafood (the grilled sea bass is a good choice), and the beach bar is perfect for a sunset drink after your round.
When you’re ready for a break from golf, there’s plenty to do nearby. The medieval town of Óbidos, just 15 minutes away, is one of Portugal’s prettiest walled villages – all cobbled streets, whitewashed houses and blooming bougainvillaea. Peniche, a lively fishing town, is 25 minutes down the coast and famous for its surfing beaches, particularly Supertubos, which hosts world championship events.
If wine is your thing, the Lisboa wine region offers several charming vineyards within an hour’s drive, producing crisp, coastal whites and smooth reds that pair perfectly with local seafood.
Nearby Courses – A Golfer’s Playground
One of the biggest advantages of staying at Praia D’El Rey is the cluster of excellent courses nearby.
West Cliffs – Just 10 minutes away and designed by Cynthia Dye, West Cliffs is a spectacular modern links that’s taken the golfing world by storm since opening in 2017. It’s tougher, bolder and arguably even more scenic than Praia D’El Rey, with jaw-dropping ocean views from nearly every hole.
Royal Óbidos – Another short drive away, this is a Seve Ballesteros design that blends resort comfort with championship challenge. The back nine is especially good, with several holes wrapping around large lakes.
Bom Sucesso – A more undulating, parkland-style course nearby, a slightly gentler test.
Between them, these layouts make this stretch of Portugal’s Silver Coast a good option. But they need to keep their game sharp as competition in the Algarve and now Comporta is raising the bar high for golf in Portugal.
Getting There
Praia D’El Rey is around an hour’s drive north of Lisbon Airport, making it easy to reach for a long weekend or a full week of golf. The drive is straightforward along the A8 motorway, and car hire is essential if you plan to explore the area or play multiple courses.
Verdict
Praia D’El Rey might not be the newest resort on the block, but it’s got soul, character and a setting that’s hard to beat. The combination of pine forest, dunes and seaside drama makes every round memorable, and the surrounding region offers everything from medieval charm to modern golf excellence.
If you’re looking for a relaxed, sun-soaked golf escape with a bit of old-school links flavour – and easy access to some of Portugal’s finest fairways – Praia D’El Rey ticks all the boxes.
